Lace and velvet….I’m thinking lace layers, shimmery velvet in silk and cotton, lightweight knits over flowered skirts, nubby knits, a frost speckled daffodil, winter into spring, the promise of summer sliding toward fall.
This is the year we lost Givenchy…and saw Carolina Herrera take her last bow, when Miuccia Prada’s Spring collection described itself as “interested in someone who can be active and present today”, a shout out to the urgent need for women to stand up against the forces that threaten to roll back their rights.
In sync with the sensibilities of an activist generation Prada’s collection, as if giving a nod to thrift shop and ‘devil may care’ self-styling spoke “the language of girls who would take their scissors to old dad coats, chop up old dresses to wear over trousers, and decorate themselves with protest pins and gig souvenirs.”
There was an exuberant take-charge energy to this show, with Miuccia’s signature irreverence, affirming once again that this designer whose first creations were inspired by the rising feminism, demonstrations and social ferment of the 60s has not missed a step. Today in the spirit of #Metoo and #Notonemore she’s telling us to re-imagine, take some risks, stop playing nice, shrug off old rules like that heavy winter coat that serves no purpose now, and sharpen our comebacks. And while she winks from the sidelines of her latest collection, she lets us know that she’s still, and will always be, on our side.
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